The Journal

Notes from the kitchen

Stories from the pass, the cellar, and the farms we cook with — plus a standing invitation to come see what we're up to this season.

Recent posts

Short pieces from around the restaurant — dispatches from the pass, cellar notes, and the occasional recipe to take home.

Three natural whites we can't stop pouring

Sofia on the bottles that have defined the last month at the pass — and what makes a natural wine work alongside a long tasting.

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Why we rest the lamb for thirty minutes

A short note on patience — and the difference a half-hour makes between a good plate and one that stays with you.

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Meet Rohan: ten years of pastry, told in six desserts

Our pastry chef looks back at the sweets that shaped his style — from a failed soufflé in Mumbai to the honeyed miso on tonight's menu.

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Six Hands, one night: what we learned

A recap of February's collaboration dinner — three kitchens, one pass, and a menu nobody could have cooked alone.

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A cold asparagus soup to take home

One of the few recipes we share — simple enough for a weekday, good enough for a quiet dinner with someone you like.

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The case for a shorter menu

On why we dropped from eleven courses to seven — and how the room has felt quieter, warmer, and easier ever since.

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A letter, once a month

Menu notes, new bookings, and the occasional recipe — slow, short, and never more than once a month.